THE BASICS OF GOLF FOR BEGINNERS
Objective
The
object in the game of golf is to puttout (put the ball in the hole)
in the fewest amount of strokes. The player with the lowest score (the
least amount of strokes) at the end the game wins. The standard golf
course is divided into 18 separate fields of play known as "holes."
These holes range in distance and are assigned a number of strokes needed
to make a par. You initiate play by teeing up hitting your
ball with a club from a "teeing
ground." You complete play on each of the 18 holes by playing your
ball into the hole in the ground.
What Will I Need To Play?
To play the game
you'll need some clubs and some balls. Don't take it too seriously, you're
out there to have fun. Clubs come in various shapes, sizes, elements and
specifications. They are also available in a wide-range of prices. It's
not necessary to have what is considered a complete standard set of clubs
to begin playing the game, nor is it necessary to spend a lot of money to
get the beginner basics. You'll also need some little wooden pegs called
tees, which raise the ball up off the ground, making it much easier to
hit. You only can use a tee on your first hit of every hole.
You may have noticed
players wearing shoes with spikes on the bottom. You will not need these
in order to learn the game. Also be aware that not all courses allow you
to wear these spiked shoes. A comfortable pair of sneakers will be just
fine. You might also notice that some golfers wear a single glove.
Right-handed players wear the glove on their left hand, and left-handed
players wear the glove on their right hand. What does it do? It simply
helps to improve the player's hold on the club. Some players such as Fred
Couples doesn't wear a glove. Does a glove help? It can a little bit, and
it may help prevent blisters on your hands when you start to practice full
shots. In fact, if you have particularly sensitive hands, you might
consider wearing a glove on each hand until your hands get used to the
friction created when you swing the club.
Watch Golf On TV
One of the simplest ways
to become familiar with the game is to watch it played on television. This
can help you in learning the rules to the game but not so the
skill. However,
watching the game on television can be very helpful. Just keep things in
perspective. You just can't expect to play the game like the pros--but
that doesn't mean you can't expect to play well enough to have a lot of
fun.
EQUIPMENT

Be Honest With Yourself
Don't fool yourself
into thinking you're going to become a single-digit handicap in short
order, and you need the best clubs on the market to reach your goal. You
don't have to run out and spend $1,500 for a set of clubs with the latest
innovations. But, if you want it and can afford it, go ahead Technically-speaking,
investment cast, perimeter weighted clubs are the way to go. They will
protect you against your worst swings. Ask any salesperson to direct you
to those clubs. Actually, it's hard to find anything else these days. The
preponderance of clubs on the market are investment cast, perimeter
weighted. OK. Now you know investment cast and perimeter weighting. Don't
get too technical beyond that because most of the rest you don't need to
know right now. As your game improves and you become more involved, you'll
learn the nuances in good time.
Steel Or Graphite Shafts?
In the early
stages I don't believe the ability to golf will be enhanced or diminished
by the shaft you choose, at least not were your game is now. Price-wise,
graphite is generally more expensive and like most things which are
costlier there is a certain stigma attached to them, but there are a lot
of very inexpensive graphite shafts on the market today that cost little
more than steel. The advantage of graphite is that it is lighter and easier to
swing and, in some instances, enables the golfer to get the ball airborne
easier. Getting the ball in the air can be of critical importance to
beginners ,because hitting ground balls is terribly frustrating.
Frustration is probably the number one reason people give up golf. As a
rule of thumb, I would recommend graphite for women beginners.
New or Used?
The Internet, top retail shops
and mail-order houses offer some terrific bargains and reductions on new
clubs from previous model years. Look in your local newspaper in the
classified section.. There are some great bargains from the people who
just have to have this years model. If you know where to look, you
can get an excellent demo or used set in the $200-$400 range for eight
irons. Department store brands can run as low as $199 for eight
irons/three woods. What if you absolutely cannot afford more than the department
store brands and don't know where to find a good used set? Buy what you
can afford. As a beginning set, it'll work just fine and if you decide you
want to become more serious get new clubs that fit your game. In the long
run the cost of the clubs will only be a fraction of the cost to play
regularly.
What Kind Of Ball?
Most women use a ball
with an 80 compression. What this means is the ball will go further with
less club head velocity. If you hit the ball particularly long you may
want to try a 90 compression. It may improve your distance. Despite
anything else you hear the distance of the ball is determined by the
weight and density of the club head in conjunction with the speed of the
club head at impact. It is simply physics!
THE "RIGHT" Golf Ball
There used to be only
four or five companies making balls. Today at least a dozen manufacturers
offer a huge variety of brands labeled "for women"., Lady Pro, Titleist,
Avant, Spalding, Dunlop, Maxfli, Pinnacle - the list goes on .Names by
themselves don't help. Advertisements promise distance, accuracy and other
advantages, but what would you expect. The labeling on golf ball
packaging gives you information on how the ball is intended to perform.
What determines the best match between you and your golf ball is your
swing speed. Softer, lower compression balls are designed to aid the
golfer with a slower swing speed. Golf balls marketed specifically to
women usually have a compression of 76 to 80 pounds per square inch (psi)
or less. Women's golf balls are generally lower compression, two-piece
balls with an extra hard or double cover designed to prevent cuts. Being
softer, these balls are supposed to spin less, roll more and be easier to
get up in the air. Softer balls perform best when hit at a slower swing
speed and are a good choice for all golfers on colder days. How to choose
the "right" ball, however, can be a challenge. Interestingly enough, golf
instructors go into great detail helping you find the ideal equipment for
your game and spend hours studying and improving your stance and your
playing technique. They teach you about the rules and nuances of the game.
Yet few take any time discussing balls other than to admonish, "Always
keep your eye on the ball."
Heed that advice,
however, long before you step up to the tee. Shop for balls that match
your swing speed and purchase singles or sleeves of two or three. Then,
try this simple test: Take two balls, hold them up to eye level with both
at the same distance from the ground, then drop them onto any piece of
concrete and watch them bounce. The ball that springs higher is the one
you want. Notice that even though you drop two balls from the same
package, they will not bounce to the identical height. Now consider this:
Translate the few inches difference in the bounce between those two balls
and factor it over the 150 to 200 yards the average woman usually hits.
Now take a few of the better bouncing balls out to a course you're
familiar with. Experiment with the balls on different holes and under
different conditions such as driving off the tee, fairway shots, chipping,
sand shots and putting. Take notes and try several different balls from
the same and different brands. No matter which one you eventually choose,
your golf balls should be free of cuts and scuffs, especially the ball you
putt with. Every change in the ball's surface affects how it rolls,
particularly on the green.
So yes, the ball you
select does make a difference. There is a range of performance between the
rough, scuffed objects you might find at a garage sale for 50 cents and
the most expensive ball your pro shop promotes. Remember, though, a
player's skill level has absolutely no meaning to the ball itself.
Each player must
determine her priorities and be aware how different circumstances call for
different balls. What matters most to you? Do you want more bounce or
click? Is it easier for you to see colored balls at certain times of the
day? The distance the ball gives you? Its price? How it feels? Its name
recognition and image? What your friends recommend?
Most experts agree
that discriminating golfers tend to choose balls based on how they feel
when you hit them. While weight, texture, compression, flight ballistics,
sound, color and other factors surely count, many - beginners, improvers,
often even pros - can't choose one golf ball from another in a blind test,
even though there will be differences.
BUYING
GOLF BALLS
The golf ball is
fundamental to a round of golf. With so many different balls available,
how can you know which is best for you? Like so much else in golf, finding
the perfect ball for your individual style of play may involve some trial
and error. If you adhere to some basic guidelines, however, you can easily
narrow your search.
CONSTRUCTION
Three-Piece
Wound
These balls have a small liquid or solid core, surrounded by
several hundred yards of tightly wound elastic. This is covered with a
synthetic material such as soft, rubber-like balata. These balls have a
very high spin rate, allowing experienced players to "work the
ball."
Two-Piece
Distance
These balls are made of a polybutadiene core and a hard
Surlyn cover. They produce less spin, which cuts down on hooking, slicing
and air resistance.
Two-Piece
Performance
These balls are fairly new, but already dominate the
market. These balls are constructed with a thick core, and a softer,
thinner cover. This results in a ball that combines the distance
advantages of a two-piece ball, with enhanced spin, control and
feel.
Three-Piece
Double-Cover
These balls are the newest addition to the game. They
consist of an inner core surrounded by a second, thinner layer (or cover),
topped with a synthetic cover. Each cover is of a different hardness,
which provides a better combination of distance and spin.
Compression
Compression is simply the measurement of a
ball's hardness. The three standard compressions are 80, 90 and 100.
Softer balls sit on the club face a moment longer, allowing for more
control. Higher compression balls "explode" off the club face more
quickly, maximizing distance.
Dimple
patterns
Dimple patterns can make a big difference. Dimples, the
indentations in a golf ball, give it its aerodynamic character. Most golf
balls have between 400 and 450 dimples, although it is not uncommon to see
a ball with 500 dimples. Without delving into physics, dimple patterns
(the geometric arrangement of the dimples over a golf ball's surface) vary
widely. Some examples are octahedral, icosahedral and dodecahedral
patterns. However impressive they sound, these patterns are not as
important as the depth and diameter of the dimples. Simply put, balls with
shallow dimples tend to fly in a shallower arc as they 'bore in' toward
their destination. Those with deeper dimples fly in a higher arc, creating
lift.
Some other things to
keep in mind when choosing a ball are its durability, spin rate, and
feel.
Spin
Rate
The spin rate of a ball affects how a player can control the
ball. Higher spin rates are preferred by better players, who can control
how the ball "bites", and ultimately where it will rest. High-handicappers
usually prefer balls with lower spin rates, which simplify long shots and
are more forgiving.
Feel
Finally, the feel of a golf ball is important to
many golfers. Softer-feeling balls may offer more control than hard
ones.
Once you find a ball
that performs consistently well, on both your long and short games, stick
with it.
GOLF CLUBS
Whether you are a new
golfer, an amateur with decades of play, or a competitive pro, odds are
you could benefit from a little guidance. Technology is constantly
refining golf equipment. New materials with different properties seem to
be incorporated into golf clubs daily, each touting some new,
indispensable benefit. Our golf staff is well versed in the technologic al
advances in the industry today. Here are their guidelines for you to
consider when selecting golf clubs.
What is important is
to assess where you are in the game, and then choose the basic equipment
that is right for you. The more familiar you become with your own game's
strengths and weaknesses, the better equipped you will be to take
advantage of the myriad choices and combinations available.
First, there are
three levels of players.
Beginner
If
you are just starting out, play infrequently, or have a high handicap, you
probably fit into this group.
Intermediate
If you are a mid- to high-handicap amateur,
or if you play frequently during golf season (once a week or more), you
probably fit into this group.
Advanced
If
you play frequently and competitively, or have a low-handicap, odds are
that you fit into this group.
Now let's define what
is in a basic set of golf clubs.
- 3 woods (or
metalwoods)
- 8 irons
(3-pitching wedge)
- 1 sand
wedge
- 1 putter
Remember, depending
on how you play the game, the clubs you carry in your bag may differ from
this. Expect to make adjustments until you find the balance that suits
your game and takes advantage of your abilities.
When buying clubs,
there are several basic attributes to consider.
Club Head
Construction Materials
Woods
With woods, this can be titanium, stainless
steel, or a combination of these two and other materials. Stainless
steel heads are mass-produced and hit consistently. The heads are
hollow, with most of their weight distributed around the club head. This
makes the stainless steel club very forgiving when you hit off-center
(mis-hit) shots. Titanium clubs currently are king of the course.
Titanium is lighter and stronger than stainless steel, allowing for
larger (or oversized) head construction. Oversized heads have a larger
"sweet" spot, making them more forgiving. In addition, since the heads
are larger, the center of gravity shifts back, meaning there is more
power and loft at point of contact.
Irons
With irons, the club head usually is a cast-iron
design, made of a stainless-steel composite or forged carbon steel.
Cast-iron designs use 17-4 stainless steel (the hardest surface), 431
stainless steel (next hardest), or 303 stainless steel (softest). Carbon
steel forged irons are much softer than stainless steel irons, and are
slightly less durable. Carbon steel allows for a bit more ball control
and backspin off the club than stainless steel. Less common are titanium
irons, which allow for a larger club head and more radical
designs.
Finally, irons are
sporting face inserts. These are tabs of material inserted into the club
head that form the actual hitting area. This results in enhanced feel
and distance while maintaining the weight of stainless steel. The most
common inserts are titanium and ceramic. Each insert offers a different
feel (soft versus hard, for instance), and is usually a personal
preference decision.
Putters
Putters are made from a seemingly endless
variety of materials, including carbon-steel, stainless steel, bronze,
aluminum, brass, copper, zinc, graphite and tungsten. Each of these
materials delivers a different feel at contact. Again, it comes down to
personal preference. If you prefer a firm feel with a sharp retort, or
"clicking" sound, then stainless steel or other hard material would be a
good choice. Many golfers prefer a softer feel, which offers more
control on the follow through (since the ball retains contact with the
putter longer). If this is your preference, then a soft material insert,
such as balata (made from refined latex), is a good
choice.
Shaft attributes,
including length, flex, and construction material
Flex
refers to a shaft's rigidity, generally available in a range from
ladies, seniors and regular, to stiff and extra stiff.
Woods
With woods, most golfers prefer graphite shafts
over stainless steel ones. Graphite lowers the overall weight of a club,
which means you can swing the club faster, gaining overall distance on
your shot. Also, graphite reduces the jarring you can feel on contact, a
process called dampening. Many golfers, however, swear by steel. The
main advantages to steel are consistency and cost: steel costs far less
than graphite, and offers consistency in feel and flex.. Club length has
increased recently, which can mean longer drives, especially for newer
golfers. The average driver has grown to 45 inches in length. On longer
drivers, flex usually is more pronounced, which minimizes harshness at
impact and helps get the ball airborne.
Irons
With irons, people are more evenly split between
steel and graphite. Again, steel offers more consistency, which can be a
benefit to newer players still developing their individual swing style.
Also, since ball flight off steel irons is usually lower, there is less
wind resistance, which translates into more control, especially for
stronger golfers. Graphite is lighter, and usually a bit longer than
standard steel shafts, which translates into faster club head speed and
more distance. This is especially beneficial for women, seniors and
others with slower swings.
Putters
Putters mostly are built with stainless steel
shafts. Since one is hitting the ball with much less force than one
would with woods or irons, the shaft material is not
critical.
It is important to
remember that choosing a set of clubs is like choosing a pair of shoes. It
must fit you just right. You should not have to work around the club;
rather, the club should complement your style and enhance your game. A
properly chosen set of clubs can improve your handicap and really enhance
your enjoyment of the game.
PERFORMANCE TIPS
-
Practice one skill
or mechanical change at a time. If an instructor makes four swing
changes, pick one change to work on at a time. Stick to one swing
thought or one drill at a time.
-
Use feedback to
enhance learning: When you are alone hitting balls, you don't have
feedback from an instructor telling you what's right and wrong. You will
learn much faster if you use external sources of feedback (or knowledge
about your performance). A good source of feedback is a video
camera.
-
Play shots, don't
beat balls: The most important practice for learning and performance is
playing golf shots. Play shots with focus and intention. Don't just
smash balls one after another. Pick a target each time you hit a shot.
Imagine the ball flying to the target.
-
Variety is the
spice of golf: Take all your clubs to the range and hit everything from
wedge to driver. You use all your clubs when you play so why not
practice with all the clubs in your bag. Don't just hit balls from a
flat, perfect lie on the range. You hit all kinds of shots on the
course, so why not get good at them in practice
first?
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